Fare: Budapest

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The unification of two ancient settlements, the Hungarian capital is a city of stunning architecture, kitchens churning out comforting classics, and a verve for social politics.

Inside This Issue:

Dine at Rosenstein, a stalwart of Jewish-Hungarian cuisine, where matzah ball soup, chicken paprikash, and poppyseed cakes are treated with reverence

 

Step into the healing waters of the Gellért Thermal Baths, one of Buda's grandest art-nouveau buildings and a living piece of the city's ancient bathing culture

 

Meet Peter Pallai, a jazz critic and former radio producer who, as a child, was sheltered from the Nazis and later fought in the revolution against Hungary’s communist regime

 

Partake in “Lomtalanítás,” an annual tradition in which spring cleaning turns into a citywide treasure hunt